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The Lakes Basin: Plumas County's Jewel Box for Hikers and Kayakers

  • Writer: Jeff Askew
    Jeff Askew
  • 3 days ago
  • 4 min read
Man's hand resting on the trunk of a large moss covered tree.

Nestled in the high Sierra of Plumas County, just south of Graeagle, lies a truly magical corner of the Plumas National Forest known as the Lakes Basin Recreation Area. This region, carved by glaciers millennia ago, is a dense concentration of over 20 crystal-clear alpine lakes, rugged granite peaks, and a sprawling network of trails.

If your ideal vacation involves trading noise for nature, asphalt for alpine views, and stress for the silent glide of a kayak, the Lakes Basin is your paradise. Here’s your guide to exploring Plumas County’s hidden jewel box on foot and by paddle.

 

Hiking the High Country: Trails for Every Trekker

The Lakes Basin is a hiker’s dream, featuring an impressive variety of trails that cater to everyone from families looking for an easy stroll to seasoned mountaineers seeking a strenuous climb.


Following a female hiker up a trail in the high Sierras

Must-Do Hikes in the Lakes Basin

  • Mt. Elwell Loop: This is the signature hike of the area, a challenging but incredibly rewarding full-day trek. The trail climbs to the summit of Mount Elwell, offering 360-degree panoramic views that stretch across the entire Lakes Basin, the Mohawk Valley, and even to the distant Sierra Buttes. You’ll pass numerous lakes, including Round, Long, and Smith, giving you a comprehensive tour of the area’s glacial geography.

  • Frazier Falls Trail: Perfect for families or those looking for an easy, spectacular reward. This short, paved, and ADA-accessible trail is only about a mile round-trip and leads to an observation deck with stunning views of the Frazier Falls tumbling down the granite mountainside.

  • Bear Lakes Loop: For a moderately easy day hike that captures the "basin" feel, the loop connecting Big Bear, Little Bear, and Cub Lakes is ideal. The trail is well-defined and winds through dense forest, treating you to views of the tranquil, glacially carved water bodies tucked into the granite landscape.


Many of these trails, including the path around Round Lake, also connect directly to the legendary Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), offering boundless opportunities for longer backpacking trips or simply walking in the footsteps of thru-hikers.

 

Kayaking the Glacial Waters: Quiet Paddling Escapes

The Lakes Basin is a sanctuary for non-motorized boating, offering quiet, glassy surfaces that perfectly mirror the surrounding granite peaks and dense pine forests.



Top Paddling Destinations

  • Gold Lake: As the largest lake in the Lakes Basin, Gold Lake is the primary hub for water activities. Its size allows for extended paddling without feeling crowded. You can easily launch a kayak or paddleboard here and explore long stretches of clear blue water, making it a favorite for fishing, swimming, and simply soaking in the high-elevation serenity. Motorized boats are allowed here, but the lake is large enough to find a quiet cove.

  • The Smaller Lakes: For a true escape, target the smaller, often non-motorized waters like Silver Lake or Sardine Lake (just outside the basin boundary near the Sierra Buttes). These lakes offer a more intimate kayaking experience. Paddling these waters is like gliding across glass, allowing you to focus on the shoreline's wildlife and the dramatic geological features without the interruption of large wakes.


Need to rent gear? The Graeagle Outpost at the nearby Graeagle Mill Pond offers rentals for kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, and canoes, making it easy to get out on the water.

 

The Perfect Basecamp: Why Choose Camp Layman

To truly maximize your time in this outdoor playground, you need a comfortable, convenient basecamp. A stay at Camp Layman—or similar rustic accommodations near Graeagle—offers several key benefits for the active traveler:

  • Strategic Location: Camp Layman offers rustic cabins nestled in the mountain pines near Cromberg, providing a quiet, restorative retreat while still being an easy drive to both the Lakes Basin for hiking and Gold Lake for paddling. The proximity means you spend less time driving and more time on the trail or the water.

  • Rest and Recovery: After a challenging all-day hike up Mt. Elwell or a long paddle across Gold Lake, returning to a cozy cabin with kitchenette facilities allows you to recharge without a long, draining commute. It’s the ideal setup for multi-day adventurers who need a reliable spot to cook, clean gear, and prepare for the next day's trek.

  • A Classic Mountain Experience: Many accommodations in Plumas County, including the rustic housekeeping cabins at Camp Layman, retain a historic, low-key charm that embodies the "Lost Sierra" experience. This atmosphere of quiet solitude is the perfect complement to the strenuous activity, helping you truly disconnect from city life and fully immerse yourself in nature’s rhythm.

 

Know Before You Go: Plumas County Planning

  • Access: The Lakes Basin Recreation Area is generally accessed via Gold Lake Highway from the town of Graeagle. Be aware that this high-elevation road closes in the winter due to heavy snow, so plan your hiking and paddling trips for late spring through early fall (typically May through October).

  • Gear: Bring plenty of water (or a reliable filter for refilling on the trail), as the mountain air and elevation can dehydrate you quickly.

  • Explore History: The entire Lakes Basin area borders the historical Plumas Eureka State Park, which offers additional trails and a peek into the region’s Gold Rush past, making it a great add-on to your adventure.


Pack your hiking boots and your paddles—the spectacular, glacially carved lakes and trails of Plumas County, complemented by a restful cabin stay, are waiting to deliver your next unforgettable outdoor adventure.

 
 
 

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